KEY WEST: Irreverent, Free-Spirited and Fun
The island evening pulsed with the eclectic energy that envelops Duval Street in Key West, Florida every night. My wife and I wandered amidst the hordes and hubbub, lingering by shop windows and strolling past courtyard cafes and boisterous bars.
Making our way down Duval Street in search of a seafood supper, we passed a street performer reading aloud from Dickens’ “Great Expectations.” The hand-lettered sign at his feet proclaimed “I READ FOR MONEY.” His donation jar held slim pickings, however.
Almost two hours later, strolling back to our car, we came upon the same man, reading with fervor but still no prosperity. A couple in front of us slowed to drop a few dollars into his jar. The reader didn’t miss a beat until he paused long enough to notice the folding money, then pumped his fist into the air and yelled “YES!”
It was a funny, spontaneous moment for us in a place that epitomizes the laid-back ambiance of the Florida Keys. Island life is, after all, a break from the ordinary. And life in Key West, as we discovered, is anything but ordinary.
GETTING THERE: THE OVERSEAS HIGHWAY
Part of the fun of Key West is getting there. It is literally the end of the road, closer to Havana than Miami. The Florida Keys are a 125-mile long island chain that wraps around the south coast of Florida, pointing into the Gulf of Mexico. The islands, or “keys,” are linked by the scenic Overseas Highway (U.S. Highway 1).
Though the towns of Key West and Marathon have airports and car rentals, we have always preferred the charm of driving through the islands. Part of the attraction for us is the notion that time is not so important that we can’t pull over to admire an expanse of turquoise ocean or explore a state park with an inviting beach. The Keys are well-loved and this means that traffic is sometimes slow on the Overseas Highway. But we don’t care.
It’s really about the process of living life on “island time.”
Striking up a conversation with a couple in a cafe along the way, we mentioned that we were heading to Key West. The man said “Oh, Key West is a lot of commotion and T-shirt shops!” His wife added, “Yes, but it is so much fun!”
They were both right. Key West is an elegant mixture of 19th Century charm and modern attractions spiced with a relaxed citizenry who proudly claim to be part of the Conch Republic (pronounced “konk”).
When people speak of the Key West Conch, they could mean the large sea snail that lives in the waters surrounding the Florida Keys.
But they are probably referring to a native of Key West. To this day, if you are born in Key West you are a Conch. If you come from someplace else but live in Key West for at least seven years, you become a “fresh water conch.” The Key West high school sports teams are the “Fighting Conchs.”
Conchs are also a culinary treat. The meat is edible and you can taste it in conch fritters, conch stew, conch salad or conch chowder. And, of course, you can head home with a large conch shell souvenir, wearing a new “Conch Republic” t-shirt.
Key West is a 2 x 4-mile subtropical island with a population of about 23,000 people.
The island’s lush environment and colorful characters provided inspiration for resident writers such as Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Robert Frost, Winslow Homer, Mario Sanchez and Judy Blume.
Singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett lived in a second story apartment in town during much of the 1970s. Key West was a big influence on his musical career and the place where the legendary Coral Reefer Band was born. President Harry Truman had his “Little White House” in Key West, often enjoying a taste of his favorite dessert, Key Lime pie. John Audubon also lived here. The rich and famous, like every visitor since, have savored the seasoning that the island’s delicious commotion offers.
SUNSETS AT MALLORY SQUARE
If you hear the phrase “See you at sunset” while visiting Key West, there is only one place it could mean: Mallory Square. The daily “Sunset Celebration” begins about two hours before sunset on the waterfront plaza in Key West’s historic Old Town.
The spontaneous gathering attracts hundreds of tourists and an enthralling blend of jugglers, magicians, acrobats, artists, musicians, food vendors, psychics and characters. Arrive too late and you still might glimpse the sun sinking into the Gulf of Mexico through the cell phone forest of the crowd.
Key West has been a favorite destination of our family for years. Each visit inspires a different experience.
We soon discovered that navigating the narrow, busy Old Town streets in a car can be a challenge. Renting coaster bikes has turned our excursions to attractions like the Shipwreck Treasure Museum or Hemingway’s House into a more relaxing outing.
On our bikes, we have meandered the enticing streets and lanes of Old Town with its colorful Caribbean architecture and old homes constructed of coral rock or salvaged ship boards. We’ve pedaled to such attractions as the Audubon Home and Gallery, the Butterfly and Nature Conservatory, the Key West Aquarium, Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park and the Truman Little White House. And we have, of course, taken a selfie at the Southernmost Point in the Continental U.S. marker.
One of our biking explores led us to the Key West cemetery. The tombs here are stacked because of the high water table and rocky soil. As a reflection of the island’s trademark eccentricities, there are some clever epitaphs inscribed on the tombs. My personal favorite: “See, I told you I was sick.”
Island life is defined by water. A variety of salt water adventures await if you want to take in a fishing charter, kayak tour, sail boat ride, sunset cruise or a diving/snorkeling outing. For a longer excursion, you can board a swift catamaran for the 70-mile voyage from Key West to Dry Tortugas National Park in the Gulf of Mexico.
WHY KEY WEST?
Key West charms itself into your soul with its tropical feel and end-of-the-road attitude. Combine simple pleasures and tolerant view of life and it seems that the Conchs are onto something here. It’s something to ponder while brushing the sand off your feet before heading home.
IF YOU GO
To get the most out of your Key West visit, find a good guide book. Our favorite is June Keith’s Key West and the Florida Keys, for a handy insider’s guide to the islands.
Websites:
www.fla-keys.com