On Top of the World
Up Up Lookout
The storm clouds, black and ominous, scraped over Eagle Peak in the rugged Bitterroot Mountains of western Montana, racing towards our snug “home” atop Up Up Lookout.
- Seasoned Vagabond -
Overhead, the broad sky was sunny and dappled with fleecy clouds. Yet the weather changes fast in the mountains, and our rental lookout tower was in the path of a swift-moving lightning storm.
In the midst of high winds, lightning and thunder that shook the tower and pelting rain that erased the grand vistas of the Bitterroots and the St. Regis River drainage, we were safe inside our cozy refuge. The show was intense, but short-lived. While it still spit and blew overhead, we caught glimpses of clear sky to the west. Soon the storm churned past and the sun warmed our refuge. On the east catwalk, rainbows arched over the mountains now in the path of the storm. Up Up Lookout (elevation 5900 feet) is a 40’ tall treated timber tower perched on a scenic rock pinnacle. Built in 1966, it replaced a 1930s tower. Constructed on an exposed peak in order to scout for fire, Up Up is designed to withstand staggering winds and direct lightning blows. Lightning rods and grounding cables protect the lonely sentinels.
WHY WE DO IT
So why have Phil, my photography business partner, and I exposed ourselves to such raw displays of nature’s power? Because after renting over 30 fire lookouts over the past 25 years, we are addicted. Each lookout has its own charm and story. We’ve watched from above as bear, elk and deer forage at the base of the lookouts. We’ve looked owls and hawks in the eye. On clear nights on a fire tower, the stars seem to graze the cabin roof.
If we’re lucky, the primal glow of northern lights paint a living canvas that stretches overhead.
Even a sliver of waning moon casts distinct shadows through the windows. The silence, at first overwhelming, doesn’t really exist. Wind and wildlife take over from vehicles and voices. From snow to rain and early dawns to speechless sunsets, renting a lookout offers a new vista in every direction. And, if you tire of the view from one direction, just choose a different panorama.
The rental lookouts are usually 15-foot by 15-foot cabins circled by a catwalk. Most were built or remodeled in the 1960s to house fire watchers, with windows surrounding the cabins. Counting the steps carved into the rock pinnacle and the three flights of steep stairs on the lookout itself, it took over 60 steps to reach the catwalk atop Up Up. Other lookouts are perched just off the ground on bald peaks. The views are always spectacular and vast.
I wrote the following ditty in Up Up Lookout’s log
book last summer, attempting to put in verse why it’s worth spending time on top of the world:
ODE to UP UP LOOKOUT
by Jim Umhoefer
The day was fair when we reached Up Up
A lofty home to enjoy our sup!
Though hauling gear made us two sore pups,
We were certain to enjoy our cups!
O’er 30 lookouts we’ve loved to share;
We’ve seen pack rats and we’ve seen some bears.
Though lightning strikes bristle our neck hair,
Life in the sky means we have no cares!
Some come to rest with good books to read.
Some come for fun, bringing wine indeed!
Some come to pause, searching souls to feed--
Yet we all come here, getting what we need!
Up Up cares not ‘bout what goals we chase,
The gains or loss in the worldly race.
So see, feel and act with a slower pace;
‘Tis why this lookout’s such a special place!
WHAT TO EXPECT
Up Up Lookout, like other rentals, is remote. Road access can be steep and rutted in spots, with abrupt drop-offs and no guard rails. Count on slow drives on narrow, primitive roads. You won’t need a four-wheel drive vehicle to navigate these roads, but your vehicle should be high clearance. Some lookouts have no road access, requiring backpacking or horsepacking your gear.
Amenities are sparse and vary among rental units. There are no cooking facilities, refrigeration or electrical service available. You will need to bring water for drinking, cooking and cleaning, as well as cooking equipment and fuel. Cots, bedding, towels, soap, cooking and eating utensils, matches, toilet paper and garbage bags are not provided. Up Up Lookout has propane lights and a heater, though we always bring our own lanterns. Propane heaters make for a warm space, but may not be provided in all units.
Weather can be fickle in the mountains. We prepare for cold and heat, sun and rain (or snow). Some lookout rentals have two single beds, some have one. The lookouts can sleep up to four people, so guests should bring additional sleeping pads or cots as needed in each unit. We always pack sleeping bags, pillows and mattress pads on our outings. Up Up has a campfire ring and a picnic table nestled in the trees at the base of the lookout, but this also varies among rental lookouts.
We consider our rental lookout adventures to be “camping with a roof over our heads.”
Since we don’t know exactly what supplies, if any, are in a particular lookout, we are self-sufficient. We pack out what we pack in, as is requested at all back country hideaways. Bathrooms are sturdy outhouses, to which we bring toilet paper, just in case.
Those that come to these isolated aeries are grateful for the experience, judging by entries in the log books provided. We have always found the lookouts to be clean and neat on our arrival, and we make sure to leave it in good condition for the next lucky renters.
Phil and I like to explore the mountain country surrounding the lookouts. At Up Up, for example, the Ridge Trail winds into the beautiful Ward and Eagle peaks roadless area, climbing to some scenic alpine lakes and connecting to other national forest paths. Photography, wildlife viewing, berry picking and even fishing provide great temptations to explore. The trail meanders all the way to the Idaho state line, near Ward Peak. To us, two adult kids, whatever the wear and tear on on truck or body it takes to reach these lofty refuges is worth it. If only we can continue to convince our wives.
IF YOU GO
Northern Region of the US Forest Service has about 30 fire lookouts and towers available for rent. For details, visit: www.fs.fed.us/recreation/reservations
Reservations are made through the National Recreation Reservation Service. Call 1-877-444-6777 or visit: www.Recreation.gov. Rates range from $30-50 per night.
Call Ahead: Check with the local national forest ranger district office for updates on road conditions, facility details, etc. Once a reservation is made, you will receive documentation about the facility, reservation details and directions to the unit. Most rental units have access gates and/or locked access doors. Call the local district that manages the unit to confirm the combination code before you leave home.
